Pictured above are Petrona
Perez of San Bartolo Coyotepec and Sergio Santos of La Union.
(Excerpted and updated from issue #17 of Las Noticias, The Folk Tree's newsletter.)
Anyone who has ever spent more than three minutes talking to me about Mexico knows, without a doubt, that Oaxaca (pronounced Wa-hah'-ka) is my place under the sun. Why Oaxaca?
My love affair with Oaxaca began some twenty years ago. Since then I find myself there many times a year, each time feeling more and more at home.
I always ask for a window seat leaving Mexico City for the forty-five minute flight to Oaxaca. I love to look out at the twin volcanoes Popocatîpetl and Iztacc'huatl reminding me that I'm headed toward Oaxaca. (With the recent volcanic activity on Popo, flights are currently rerouted.) On the way we pass rows of mountains in the state of Puebla before coming to the broad, fertile valley of Oaxaca.
Oaxáca is the state of Oaxaca's capital city and is ringed by rugged mountains.
Coming closer to Oaxaca, typically I begin to see the clear, blue sky with an occasional drifting cloud. It is such a contrast to Mexico City's highly polluted atmosphere, it has to be love at first sight. Clear skies are synonymous with Oaxaca because industrial development is almost non-existent, a curse as well as a blessing.
Oaxaca's climate is certainly one of its big attractions. The city is about five thousand feet in elevation, the weather is temperate, not unlike Southern California. Only at mid-day does one ever feel the heat and, since this is still the land of the siesta, there's little cause to be out and around.
The nights are generally cool and the sky is filled with an abundance of stars that appear to be within a stone's throw.
Click on the photographs for a larger view.
The Z—calo (main plaza) is "the" place to be and be seen. It is daily a-buzz with locals and tourists. Sidewalk cafes ring the portales (portals). This is the "Via Veneto" of southern Mexico. The only problem may be to find a table. Enjoying a cerveza or cappuccino is a must.
Oaxaca is a colonial city. It was founded in 1512 as Antequera. In 1527, Hernán Cortez was appointed the Marquîs del Valle de Oaxaca and his descendants owned most of the area until 1910.
The city is filled with old buildings, many of which have been lovingly restored. Others, unrestored, are a contrast with their multiple layers of brightly colored but well chipped paint. Local pale green-hued stone is found throughout. Because of this unusual stone, Oaxaca has been dubbed "The City of Jade". Unique wrought iron grillwork protects the houses. The physical beauty of the colonial heart of the city is to be savored and can provide many photographic opportunities.
The world-famous ruins of Monte Albán are a constant reminder of Oaxaca's pre-Columbian past. Towering over the city, they must be visited. The site boasts beautiful views of the Oaxaca Valley. Only partially excavated, Monte Albán features a grand plaza of almost eight acres. Among the features of the hilltop are pyramids, and observatory, a ball court, stelae, and the famed Tombs 7 and 104. The bulk of the treasures of Monte Albán are housed in the Regional Museum of Oaxaca. There are gold, crystal, stone and pottery pieces discovered by Alfonso Caso and his team during the excavations of the tombs in the 1920's and 30's.
Equally famous are the ruins of Mitla, some twenty five miles outside the city. Mitla is noted for mortarless stone mosaic buildings that use symbols of nature as their inspiration. Other ruins worth viewing are scattered throughout the local valleys. Many mounds scattered throughout the areas surrounding the city, indicate that there are many more sites waiting to reveal their secrets.
Click on the photographs for a larger view.
Many village churches are also extraordinary. Portions of pre-Columbian structures were sacked and incorporated into colonial religious structures. Other favorites such as the 16th century churches in outlying communities have great primitive paintings, frescoes and sculpture. The never-finished Dominican monastery and church at Cuilapam (1555) is a national monument and contains well-preserved, gray-toned frescoes and a delightful stone baptismal font. Recently the church in Ocotlán has been beautifully restored. The adjoining convent is in process of being restored into a cultural center.
Not to be missed is the Tamayo Museum. The late, internationally famous artist, Rufino Tamayo, a native Oaxácan, converted a fine colonial mansion into a comfortable, easy-to-visit venue for his outstanding collection of ancient art. The artifacts, pre-classical to Aztec, are displayed by aesthetic, rather than archaeological standards. Pink, blue, green, lavender and orange backgrounds highlight the displays.
Another Oaxaca native son, Francisco Toledo, donated his former home as the Institute of Graphic Art. Famous for his own engravings and lithographs, Toledo left a large collection of works by famous graphic artists and an excellent art library to the facility, which also features revolving exhibits.
The Teatro Macedonio Alcalá, constructed at the turn of the century, is an architectural surprise. Tiered boxes ring the main floor of the large auditorium. The painted ceiling mural pictures a very romantic depiction of the seven muses, entwined in diaphanous scarves. Concerts of varying quality are performed on a regular bases and cost only a few pesos.
Supermarkets have newly arrived in Oaxaca but the typical markets are much more to my liking. Close to the Z—calo is the two block long Benito Juarîz Market where you can find wonderful treasures as well as receive visual thrills. Vendors sell an abundance of produce, bread, home-made cheese, fresh flowers and on and on and on. The "old market" is also great for craft and clothing shopping.
Oaxaca's famous Saturday Market no longer exists in the streets surrounding the Juarîz Market. It has been moved to the huge Abastos Market across the street from the Second Class Bus Station and in the shadow of Monte Albán. The market covers many blocks, both indoors and out. You can find just about everything under the Mexican sun here, including crafts and household objects of daily use.
Periodic markets in neighboring villages rate high on my list of favorite things to do in Oaxaca. These markets are used by locals and are very colorful. They mark a major weekly social event where vendors and buyers alike go to see and be seen.
Click on the photographs for a larger view.
Oaxacan fine arts have blossomed in recent years. It would be impossible to name the many artists who have entered the international scene. A few of my favorites are Rodolfo Morales, Francisco Toledo, Maximino Javier, Ariel Mendoza, Leovigildo Martinez, and Felipe Morales. Oaxaca has a multitude of galleries featuring work by local artists are very affordable prices.
To sum up in words just why I love Oaxaca is very hard, How can you describe what it feels like to be in love? All I know is that I experience a warm, loving feeling that I have nowhere else on earth. Oaxaca is without a doubt my place under the sun!
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